Traveling Seminar to Poland
One big happy family: the JS and CES crew in Krakow's Old Town Square at night.
Bright and early Thursday morning, Jewish Studies and Central European studies met on a coach bus and took an eight hour drive to Krakow. Most of us enjoyed some sleep, reading, movies and music in anticipation of our exciting nine day trip throughout Poland. Upon arrival, we checked into our hotel, got ourselves settled, and then reconvened for what our program director Jarka likes to call our “funny city tour”. A great tour guide took us around Krakow’s old town and pointed out some interesting sites and funny anecdotes. I keep realizing how much my time with CET is teaching me, and one great example was on our tour. The ground in Old Town Square and throughout the side streets of Krakow is uneven, and it turns out this is because, as businesses began to grow and streets needed to be more functional, they would repave. However, they would just pave over parts that needed work, making some areas higher than others. I found this so interesting, especially because we found ourselves having to step or stoop down to enter shops and restaurants throughout the city. I will always think of this reason when I see uneven roads now!
Our Jewish tour of Krakow was fascinating. We saw the remaining part of the ghetto wall, many places where Schindler’s List filmed, and many other interesting sites. The Krakow Ghetto memorial installation was interesting- it is a lot of weathered-looking chairs lined up around what was the deportation square, to symbolize waiting to be sent to concentration and death camps. Some of the chairs are in the tram stop and everyday people use them while waiting for their trams. This integration into everyday life events makes the memorial that much more meaningful in my eyes, forgetting is not an option when it is a part of your everyday life.
Dora and crew: The survivor who shared her story with us after our meeting with her.
We went to Shabbat on Friday and met two very cool people. One was the director of the Krakow JCC, who gave us a great overview of how much Krakow’s Jewish community is growing and how it is thriving in culture, education, and practice. The center was beautiful, and the joy of Jewish life exhibited there is so different from what I had heard about Poland’s Jewish population, especially because I was under the impression that the community was so small. It is in fact larger than I thought, but a number cannot really be named- the face of the Jewish population is rapidly changing and more and more people are embracing their previously suppressed Jewish identity. The other great encounter was Dora, a survivor of Auschwitz-Birkenau, who simply plopped down behind us in synagogue and asked us if we had a survivor, if we wanted to hear her story, and when she could tell us. Just like that, the day before our Auschwitz trip, we were able to hear a survivor’s story! She is 90 years old, which her demeanor and vitality would never have led us to believe. We did a little rearranging of our schedule and got to hear her story.
We loved all of the different tours and activities in Krakow and spent our free time really bonding as a group. We were glad to have a few more days together and to experience Auschwitz as a group before CES broke off to see some more of the Czech Republic on their way to Vienna as we headed to Warsaw.
Fun Outings With CET- The National Opera and Slavia Hockey Game
National Theater outside
CET loves to give us fun ways to spend our free time in Prague. Every program they offer to us is paid for by the program, and who doesn’t love a free night out with friends and entertainment?!
The National Theatre is quite close to many of the apartments that CET houses students in. We had two options of operas when we found out about the opportunity, and I chose to attend The Bartered Bride, a fairly classic love story with twists and turns, set in an agricultural era now long past. It had fun dance numbers between young lovers and a very interesting set with moving functional parts.
The Theatre itself is beautiful, I attached a picture from our seats so that you could see for yourselves! The interior reminds me a lot of what I see all over Prague- beautiful, intricate designs, moulding, and light fixtures. I am still constantly fascinated by the fact that, as long as I remember to “look up”, I find a new painting or design on almost every single building I pass, even ones I see every day on my way to and from school.
We had a great time milling about the beautiful marble, brocade, and velvet-trimmed lobby snacking on chocolate-covered graham crackers and open-faced sandwiches during the two intermissions. We especially loved talking about the translator, and light-up panel above the stage where English and German subtitles were projected so that a broad audience could follow the story line of the opera. I must say, we felt very classy and cultured, and so lucky that CET took us to such an event. My friends and I were discussion how it was such a great option for us, because we may never have thought to take ourselves to the opera, but because CET provided the opportunity for us, we were able to try something new free of charge. I definitely want to try the ballet next! I hear there is a beautiful production of Swan Lake at the National Theatre.
the Fanklub
The Slavia hockey game was a totally different kind of fun experience. Many of us who attended one of the games offered to us like to go to sporting events while at home or at our home universities. Many of us bought Slavia jerseys and cheered on Slavia, one of the two main Prague ice hockey teams to a victory. There is a fan section that could have rivaled any Big 10 student section on a good night, with noise makers and even “cheer leaders” (not the kind that I was in high school, but a rotating group of leaders with a megaphone leading the section in different chants). We had so much fun feeding off of the energy in the crowd, munching stadium snacks, and getting to blow off some of the steam of classes and such with a leisurely activity. Many of us actually went to another game that weekend! I have learned that one of the main areas Czechs are involved with extracurricularly are sports and sports leagues, and it certainly showed in how amped up they got for their home team.
Roommates in the stands
It is so great that CET makes it so easy for us to join in on activities that we may not have sought out for ourselves. Of course we all take advantage of the towers, castles, and restaurants in Prague, but more cultural leisure activities often get overlooked when we are all trying to see as much as possible and balance school work and living abroad. I will definitely remember to recommend attending more local cultural activities, like the theatre, sporting events, and the like, not only to relax and have fun, but to soak up the culture and see how your host country collectively likes to spend their time. I was happy to see so many similarities to how we cheer for our favorite sports teams in the US at the hockey game, and I was excited to feel a part of a culture that appreciates arts like opera. New experiences can come with a level of comfort when you seek them out and really look for them, and realizing them has proven to be fun and interesting thus far.
The Perfect Prague Itinerary
Charles Bridge
Prague is an amazing city and happens to be conveniently laid out such a way that, whether you have a week or just a couple of days, you can really see everything you might be interested in. The topic has been on my mind a lot lately as we all have friends and family coming to visit us. We are all shocked at what great tour guides we seem to have turned into without know it.
The first area I would tell any visitor to hit would be the Prague Castle. Mala Strana is an area just off the bank of the Vltava and one side of the Charles Bridge. Starting your day at the Castle can be amazing- the spires of the cathedral in bright sunlight are spectacular, and the Golden Lane, where one can find Franz Kafka’s workshop is a slice of history one must see. The views from each point of the castle are breathtaking, especially in the vineyard. As you wind through the castle’s grounds, you will eventually wind up going downhill. You have then finished your tour of Prague Castle and are ready to move on to a much less frequented stop. The John Lennon wall is something many people have seen pictures of on the internet- the graffitied “Coexist” classic comes straight to mind. Turning right at the end of the hill and crossing over a few streets, one turns left, goes through a few of Prague’s classic courtyard streets, and in five minutes or so, after winding around, you find the Lennon Wall, covered in brightly colored street art. Bring a Sharpie with you to add your mark to the wall! The coolest part of the wall is that it is always changing- the iconic parts of the wall are mostly covered with new art now, which may be to some a shame, but also a testament to the creativity of the visitors.
'Coexist' on the John Lennon Wall
A few blocks back to the main street and you will find yourself at the Charles Bridge. There are many towers in Prague, two with the best views at either side of the bridge. On a clear day, the view (for a small fee) is one of the best in town. There are artists and merchants on the bridge, and many interesting statues with plaques explaining their significance. Once across the bridge, one has many options. I suggest continuing on the path towards Old Town Square. If a museum interests you, the Museum of Young Art is truly a fascinating one (easily recognized by the large guns hanging in installation above). As you continue towards the square, you will see many souvenir shops and stores selling garnet and crystal, Prague’s claims to jewelry fame. If you plan your timing right, watching the changing of the hour on the Astronomical Clock in the square is quite fun. There you can also find one of my favorite treats, dough rolled over a stick, covered in cinnamon sugar, called Trdelnik. You will also see the statue of Jan Huss and followers as they are sent away from Prague and the towering gothic Tyn church. I do suggest returning to Old Town Square at night though- the spires of the church look almost menacing, and the gold trim of the face of the Astronomical Clock absolutely glows in the moonlight.
Old Town
Another area of interest is the Jewish Quarter. I always suggest people check with the reservation office of the Jewish Museum of Prague the day before they are interested in the Jewish Quarter to see when an English-speaking tour guide will be available. They do not cost extra and are a plethora of information. The Jewish Quarter has great antique shops and interesting art to see on the buildings. The Jewish Museum of Prague is actually a collection of synagogues, some still operating, some turned fully into museums, and the Jewish Cemetery. The history of the quarter, its life as a ghetto, and the visual appeal of the section make this part of town a definite thumbs-up for visitors on my list.
Wenceslas Square has seen more than its fair share of social and political happenings. Civilians have flooded the square to gather in protest, commemoration, solidarity, and shock throughout the city’s long life. At one end you find a statue of Wenceslas, one of the great rulers of the area. Meet your party under “the tail”, as the Czechs say, and then stroll down the street of mostly modern stores and restaurants.
Wenceslas Square
The Vltava curves and turns towards New Town. Some of the most fabulous views come from this section of the river. The Dancing House, one of the first example sof modern architecture post-Communism resides there, and at certain hours of the day, all that is required is a drink or a small meal to acquire access to the rooftop terrace, which gives unbelievable views of the river, castle, and city beyond. There are also boats parked on the river which are actually restaurants, and serve classic Czech food right on the water.
Other options, if you are still graving more Praha, include a picnic at Vysherad, another famous castle, with beautiful lawns, and fairly lights at night, and a day trip to Kutna Hora to see the Bone Church (yes, a church made out of bones!). Of course, I have found that getting myself a little lost in the winding cobblestone streets is truly one of my favorite things to do here, and I doubt I will ever get tired of it. I always find a great new restaurant, shop, or site that I am so glad I stumbled upon.
See pictures of some CET friends of mine and I on the Charles bridge, the now covered over Coexist section of the Lennon Wall, the Wenceslas statue, and some CET students in Old Town Square.
Comfort (Food) Zones: Eating in Prague, Morning to Night
Brunch is totally my thing. When my roommates and I found out that one of our favorite night spots, Radost (which has a really fun Hip-Hop night each week) also has brunch on the weekends, we decided Radost could definitely be the destination twice within 24 hours.
Lox in Prague is significantly less expensive compared to the general priciness of my favorite fish and carb breakfast option in America. As a native New Yorker, I am of course biased to all foreign bagels, but as far as I am concerned, the amount of fixings that comes with the Salmon Bagel Platter at Radost makes up for the slightly mediocre bagel. I left New York for a reason, after all, and I can handle a few months without one in exchange for all of the fabulous things I am doing (and eating) here.
See the photo of the lox platter, which comes with heaps of lox, a huge dollop of cream cheese, tomatoes, and onions.
So, we can start our Saturdays of exploring often overlooked side streets off well within our comfort zone. After turning down the paths less traveled, as literally as we possibly can, we often decide to try something new for dinner. One of our best discoveries were the Pivovarskys, or local breweries. Microbreweries are more or less just beginning to come into vogue here in Prague. The original, Novomestsky Pivovar, has a fun map on their place mats explaining the layout of the winding underground restaurant and the different brewing rooms. The best part for us, however, was trying the food. We all started with garlic soup (pictured), which is a good staple that we always trust to be delicious at any restaurant. It happens to be particularly delicious at Novomestsky because they have big chunks of Brie cheese floating around in the soup!
Then the really exciting part of the meal- the Brewer’s Pan. It comes in a gigantic cast iron skillet and includes duck, pork knee, and other pork cuts, sausages, green beans, and three kinds of dumplings. The waiter commented that he had never seen five girls plow through so much meat, but we are here to try as many new things as possible and after the initial shock of staring at piles of meat we thoroughly enjoyed our dinner.
While here in Prague we decided that we would indulge in a few familiar favorites as long as we also pushed our boundaries and tried at least as many new things, and, unsurprisingly but welcome and exciting nonetheless, it is working out to be a fabulous culinary experience.
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