The Number of Steps

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Written by Clyde Shavers (US Naval Academy)

 

I have found enlightenment watching the sunrise on Huangshan and peace among

the mountains of Shangri-La. I have been humbled standing at the feet of Leshan’s Giant

Buddha and amazed at the beauty of Lijiang’s history. I have camped out on the beaches

of Putuoshan, on the streets of Chengdu and at parks in Lijiang.

Most people would describe my weekend excursions as crazy and spontaneous.

And I would definitely not argue with them. There was many times where I would fall

asleep sweating from the heat and wake up cold and wet from the morning dew. I took

half-day long bus trips, day long train rides and hiked for hours to stop and breath the

fresh air just for a day before leaving to another destination. Showers were infrequent,

wearing a different pair of clothes was a rarity, and I always managed to get lost.

I feel as though my clearest memories were when I was lost and confused. With

another CET student, traveling all over south China during Fall Break, I do not remember

a single moment when we knew where we were going or what we were supposed to do.

We often joked that maps were only for tourists. We were “journey-men”. Signs on roads

did not represent direction but opportunities to explore. We used every opportunity to talk

to the people and learn a little more of China. We saw aspects of China that did not exist

in Shanghai. We ate foods that looked so weird that we had to take a little taste. It is these

moments that I’m sure we both will remember for a very long time.

Everywhere I went, I met people curious about me. I shared my history and in

turn, they shared a little something about themselves. I remember climbing Huangshan

for hours with a couple Chinese tourists, joking in Chinese. There is no doubt sitting in a

classroom learning Chinese is important. But I believe I have discovered the difference

between a learned Chinese-speaker and a traveled Chinese-speaker. I have traveled across

the vastness of China. Yet I still have trouble creating coherent sentences in class. I have

spent nights staring at the stars in China’s rural country-side. Yet talking to the villagers

is still quite difficult. Through these travels, I have “lived” in China.

Shanghai is truly an amazing city. It is the conglomeration of the traditional and

modern into one metropolis. There are definitely enough things to do in Shanghai on the

weekends. But China isn’t only Shanghai. Go to Xian and you will see China’s past. Go

to Beijing and you will find China’s present. But Shanghai is the window to China’s

future.

 

I am getting ready to say farewell to China, possibly for the last time. I will

remember the blue camping bag I lugged everywhere, the gray tent I pitched many times,

and the China book I relied on to get back home. I will remember China not by the

number of words or phrases I managed to memorize but for the number of steps I took to

cross that plain, climb that mountain and find a little piece of peace.

So open your China book and pick a place. Stick to the plan. And open your eyes.

I promise you won’t regret it.

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