5 Things to Know About Vietnam
1. Vietnamese Time = “ish”Alyce, our super awesome and smiley on-site coordinator, warned us on the first day that the Vietnamese culture tends to have a more flexible attitude toward arranged meeting times. That is, if you arrange to meet with someone at 6 pm, your buddy probably won’t show up until half an hour later. We actually watched a documentary about a Vietnam/US theater troupe collaboration that touched on this idea. The analogy someone used in the film is that the Vietnamese are like a soccer player who adjusts the play to his opponent; the idea of scripting the game move by move to be ridiculous. Flexibility is key.
Allison and I suspect we must have been secretly born Vietnamese. Unlike many of the other people in our group who have been getting up naturally at 5 or 6 am, we got over the jet lag very quickly. Excluding the first day, we have been getting up at 7:40 am every morning and barely making it to our 8 am Vietnamese class. Obviously, this will have to change once we start getting up at 4 am for our construction projects in Quang Tri this Monday.
2. One Day’s Worth of Food in Saigon < 10.00 US Dollar
Other than the discovery that exchanging 100 US dollars made me an instant millionaire in Vietnam, this is probably the most mind-numbing thing for me thus far. Not only is the food here divine, it is amazingly inexpensive. Street food will usually cost no more than two US dollars. For instance, yesterday I spent approximately 50 cents on steamed pork buns for lunch, and that was 25 cents more than I intended only because I accidentally dropped an entire bun on the ground and had to buy another one.
Although I’m not as “culturally-shocked” here as some of my peers might be — (my Taiwanese heritage has quite a few overlaps with the Vietnamese culture) — there are still many Vietnamese dishes that blow my mind. Furthermore, I am becoming addicted to the sinh to (fruit smoothies) here, which you can find almost everywhere in all sorts of flavors. It doesn’t help that they cost me about 75 cents each for one. You can’t even buy a bottle of water in the States for that sort of price.
3. Turn Your Haggle On.
Even if you’re a foreigner with limited grasp of the Vietnamese language, you must haggle for your dignity’s sake. Unless, of course, you’re perfectly fine with being majorly gypped. Your dignity might appreciate some effort though.
It’s not as bad as it sounds. In the wise words of Alyce, “If you’re a foreigner and you can speak some Vietnamese, you’re pretty much a hotshot.” The saleswoman will laugh along, probably because you used the wrong tones and said something horribly atrocious instead, but at the end of the day if you’re good-humored about the whole business, they will most likely lower the price for you if you ask reasonably. It’s probably in exchange for the great source of entertainment you just provided for them. But really, the Vietnamese are some of the friendliest people you will ever meet.
4. Do Not Stop or You Will be Roadkill.
When we visited the US Consulate this afternoon, one of the officers told us that each morning she asks the taxi driver to drop her off on the other side of the street so that she has to cross through Saigon traffic. It wakes her up every time.
The trick is, when the swarm of motorbikes and cars dissipates somewhat before the next wave of vehicles, you start walking across the street like the Emperor marching around in his New Clothes. Even though you probably feel just as naked walking straight into incoming traffic, you must show no sign of fear. Motor bikes yield to you, not the other way around (though cars might be a different story).
And whatever you do, you must not stop. Imagine yourself driving your car back at home when a deer walks onto the road and freezes at the sight of your approaching headlights. Same idea.
5. Hello just might be the hardest word.
Unlike the States where asking one’s age is a taboo topic akin to asking one’s one weight or salary, in Vietnam it is one of the first questions you ask a new acquaintance. Instead of our English pronouns for you/me that make no distinction for gender or age, simply saying “Hello” to someone in Vietnamese will cause your brain to do all sorts of calisthenics.
Here is a typical example of the thought process. Let’s say you go to a restaurant and a waitress greets you. You’re about to say Chao… but then you stop. Are you supposed to call her chi (“older sister”)? Co (younger aunt)? Bac (around your mom’s age)? You take a better look at her, but you can’t tell how old she is — even I will admit that Asians often look younger than they actually are. Should you play it safe and call her chi? But since age is revered in this Confucian society, will she be offended if you refer to her with a younger term?
By then, you’ve probably given up and just smile and nod dumbly as best you can. Nevertheless, the food will be delicious, and when you’re done, you can simply say Cam on (thank you) without necessarily going through the same hassle.
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Tomorrow morning at 5 am, we depart for Quang Tri. Internet access may be limited, but considering my blogging patterns thus far, we shall see what sort of impact this may have.
Time
Have you ever had the feeling that you haven’t breathed for a prolonged period? It is kind of like when you purposely put your head underwater, knowing full well that you can’t breathe, but enjoying the rush the moment your lungs are free to inhale again when you come back up?
That was a long sentence, I apologize… I haven’t written a long sentence in a while…my Japanese is not quite good enough for complex sentences structure (you have no idea how much I miss semicolons and big ol’ adult words)…However…
That, in essence, is my current life.
The daily work is difficult, and the tests, stressful. I have never been, and will never be, a test person. I also am not the type that can really cold memorize 50 vocabulary words a day… repeatedly. I will learn it, yes, but it takes about 2 days for me to connect with the words and for them to sink in. Sadly…I am not given that time. And trust me, you cannot derive the Japanese word for “plane” in 30 seconds. At least not as a native romance language speaker that enjoys figuring out words by playing with Latin roots… Japanese has no Latin roots. Furthermore, you can’t figure out a word with diligent creativity and problem-solving. Trust me. I tried. Vocab does not work like a math problem. Haha—they said intensive…No joke. Don’t get me wrong. I love it here. I have learned a lot…. a lot a lot. I can communicate simple wants, desires, and thoughts. It’s all sorts of freeing and exciting. I mentally read advertisements on the train like an excited 5 year old. “THAT SAYS ‘JAPAN’ kanjiIdon’tknowkanjikanji ‘BEER’ morekanjiIdon’tknowkanjikanji ‘TOGETHER’!” I apparently do not need to fully understand the advertisement to feel accomplished. It’s the little things in life….
Seeing that I am half-way done with my Japanese experience, I think it is about time I give a small blurb on life and how I am feeling. First, I think I’ll share a few highlights and pictures with fast-paced comments. Ready? Go!
Jerash, Ajloun, and Umm Qais: A Journey Through Time
Written by Parker Hine (The George Washington University),
Me in Jerash
This past weekend CET took us on an eye-opening tour of the ancient cities of Jerash, Ajloun and Umm Qais. This was my first exposure to Jordan’s rich history, which spans over 3000 years. Early on Friday morning, all the students and their language partners packed into a bus headed toward our first destination: Umm Qais. Situated near the Golan Heights, Palestine, and the Sea of Galilee, Umm Qais was once a Roman city that eventually came under Muslim control. Umm Qais boasts the remains of a basilica, a Roman theatre, numerous houses, and the remains of an old souq. As we explored the area, I was surprised at how much we could see and touch. I had just visited Europe’s most famous landmarks a few months prior, where you are only allowed to take pictures from a distance. It was the opposite here! I was allowed to wander through the timeworn houses, climb the archeological remains, and even venture into the dark, underground caverns. My favorite part of Umm Qais was the basilica. The basilica was built during the third century and marks the spot where Jesus preformed one of the miracles recorded in the bible, thus making it a pilgrimage site for early Christians. However, it was converted into a mosque after Muslims conquered the area. It was fascinating to see the seamless transition between two distinct periods of time in one location.
After a quick bus ride through a valley that borders Palestine, we arrived at Ajloun Castle. We rode in the back of a modified pickup truck to reach the base of this stunning landmark. The Castle is situated atop a hill that has a commanding view of the area. As such, it was an important location for the various empires in the region and highlights the extensive layers of history that characterizes the Middle East. Ajloun started as a meager Roman hilltop fort, was expanded by Saladin to defend against the Crusaders, was conquered and partially destroyed by Mongol invaders, then occupied by Ottoman troops, and is now a tourist attraction in the Kingdom of Jordan. Talk about historical significance! It is incredible that this one spot incorporates every major period of the Middle East and highlights the significance of the region throughout time.
As we departed for Jerash, our bus was filled with Arabic conversations, songs by Nancy Ajram, and a mix of Jordanian and American humor. When our bus pulled up to the ancient city, I immediately spotted the gigantic city gate that towered majestically over the area. I was expecting to see ruins similar to Umm Qais or Ajloun, but clearly CET had saved the best for last. As I stepped through the gates of the ancient city I immediately felt as if I had entered another world. I have visited Italy and other ancient Roman sites in the past, but nothing compares to the scale of preservation and size of Jerash. We spent the better part of the next two hours wandering through ancient streets lined with countless colossal columns, a flawless circular town center, the decorative entrance to a large basilica, and two full-sized theaters that probably looked the same way 2000 years ago. It did not take much imagination to picture a legion of the Praetorian Guard marching down the street, Senators conversing at the theatre’s entrance, or merchants selling their wares in the market. As the day drew to a close, I thought about the untold number of people who had walked the same streets over the past two millennium, and was humbled by the depth and magnitude of the empires that came before me. My summer in Jordan is not only exposing me to Arabic and modern Arab culture, but is also enabling me to discover and appreciate the history of the oldest inhabited region on Earth.
Culture Shock and Food in Japan
Whether you love or hate Japanese food, at some point during your stay in Japan you will probably welcome the sight of a McDonalds, Subway, KFC, or (an incredibly polite) Dominos delivery person. This is completely normal. During my first study abroad experience in London I learned that I appreciated American food more than I thought. I wanted mac and cheese and Reeses so badly I ordered them in bulk from a foreign food supplier and paid well over double what I paid in the US. When I moved to Japan to live in Niigata for a year I faced an even greater challenge in getting favorite American foods. Ordering things online in Japan is not easy due to the language difference. Foreign food stores are not very common and tend to be very spread out. They also may not have the foods you want because they import food from all over the world, not just America. I learned very quickly that I needed to make Japanese food more often, and that I also needed learn how to make my favorite American foods from scratch, or pay top-dollar for them.
I wish someone had informed me of the scarcity of ovens when I first moved to Japan. Japanese people think of ovens as a luxury, not a necessity. Personally, I use my oven in America between 4 and 5 times per week. Imagine moving to a place where all you have is a toaster oven (with four power settings), two burners, a microwave, and a rice cooker. I almost gave up entirely on baking until my Canadian friend successfully made carrot cake in her rice cooker. Once I learned that my rice cooker (suihanki) had a cake setting I took full advantage of the various uses (outside of cooking rice) that my suihanki provided.
Another shocking experience for most foreigners is their first trip to the grocery store. Most people never know what they will truly miss until they find that they can’t find it in a Japanese supermarket. For example, peanut butter is a standard American food item. However, American peanut butter is not often sold in normal Japanese supermarkets and Japanese peanut butter (if available) tends to be much sweeter than American varieties. If a place does happen to carry American peanut butter it will likely be Skippy, very small by our standards, and cost about 398 yen. For the most part the fruit and meat sections will seem fairly standard, but the interior space where you would normally expect shelves to be stocked with cereal, soda, and various other foods will be filled by more varieties of miso, soy sauce, curry, and rice than you ever thought existed. Shopping at Japanese supermarkets can be daunting, and will most likely be one of the first places you truly begin to experience culture shock. Wheat bread, non-fat milk, and the varieties of cheese you’re used to at home are all incredibly difficult if not impossible to find. Learning to find acceptable substitutions will help you deal with the shock of not having all your favorite foods at arms reach.
Although foreign food is available more readily in the Osaka/Kyoto area, you will pay quite a bit more for it. For example, flour tortillas that you buy for about $1.50 in the US will sell for around 400 yen here. You can either pay (and travel) for the convenience, or you can learn how to make your favorite foods at home from scratch. I recommend the latter. First of all, learning to make things from scratch is fun and allows you to be creative, not to mention improves your own cooking skills. Making one of your favorite dishes from scratch will provide a feeling of accomplishment and success, something you will probably need while participating in an academically challenging program such as CET’s. You’ll be surprised at the foods you can make when you start thinking of what ingredients are available instead of what things aren’t available in the supermarkets. Going through the grocery store aisles one at a time and taking inventory of available ingredients will only help you when looking for recipes. I suggest taking a careful look at what frozen foods, spices, and condiments are available. As far as spices are concerned you may find the foreign food stores offer a much wider variety (in larger sizes) for a better price than the local supermarket. Baking products, beans, canned tomatoes, and frozen fruit are also usually sold at import stores like Kaldi Coffee House for less than the traditional Japanese supermarket and also provides a fun and interesting shopping experience as you browse the store and take in all the foods from other parts of the world.
After you have a feeling of what’s available in your area, think of a food you could make with those ingredients and Google recipes for it. After finding a suitable recipe, you’ll also need to consider your equipment. For example, if you want to make chocolate chip cookies, do you have a toaster oven you can bake them in? (I recommend baking cookies at about 500-750 watts). If you want to make a cake or cornbread, do you have a rice cooker? Obviously being in Japan for a couple months makes it difficult to justify buying a lot of equipment just to make one dish, so deciding what recipe you can make depends on what ingredients are available and what equipment you have. You might be surprised at the options. Here’s a sampling of some of my favorite “American” foods I’ve made (from scratch) in Japan:
· Pasta bake with meatballs
· Mexican tacos, refried beans, rice, red sauce, and flour tortillas. (the only thing I purchased pre-made was salsa for the rice)
· Bean and cornbread casserole
· Chocolate chip cookies
· Oatmeal raisin cookies
· Yellow cake with chocolate frosting (or berry sauce)
· Apple cake (and various other fruit cakes)
· Applesauce
· Bread pudding
You may be asking why you would want to eat any American food while you’re in Japan since you’ll want to experience local Japanese food. I can’t say for certain, but I do think that most students who study abroad will find that the stress of classes, getting a poor grade, or just a gloomy day could stimulate a feeling of homesickness for a certain food. These are just a few suggestions on what to do if and when you get that craving. Personally I find cooking and baking to be an incredible stress reliever and a great way to share my culture with my roommate. I bake a new food every weekend, and my roommate and I have really bonded over my love to bake sweets. I think she enjoys experiencing new foods and talking about the differences between American and Japanese cultures. Keep in mind that studying abroad is a chance for you to grow and develop in many different ways, not just Japanese language.
Whether you love or hate Japanese food, at some point during your stay in Japan you will probably welcome the sight of a McDonalds, Subway, KFC, or (an incredibly polite) Dominos delivery person. This is completely normal. During my first study abroad experience in London I learned that I appreciated American food more than I thought. I wanted mac and cheese and Reeses so badly I ordered them in bulk from a foreign food supplier and paid well over double what I paid in the US. When I moved to Japan to live in Niigata for a year I faced an even greater challenge in getting favorite American foods. Ordering things online in Japan is not easy due to the language difference. Foreign food stores are not very common and tend to be very spread out. They also may not have the foods you want because they import food from all over the world, not just America. I learned very quickly that I needed to make Japanese food more often, and that I also needed learn how to make my favorite American foods from scratch, or pay top-dollar for them.
I wish someone had informed me of the scarcity of ovens when I first moved to Japan. Japanese people think of ovens as a luxury, not a necessity. Personally, I use my oven in America between 4 and 5 times per week. Imagine moving to a place where all you have is a toaster oven (with four power settings), two burners, a microwave, and a rice cooker. I almost gave up entirely on baking until my Canadian friend successfully made carrot cake in her rice cooker. Once I learned that my rice cooker (suihanki) had a cake setting I took full advantage of the various uses (outside of cooking rice) that my suihanki provided.
Another shocking experience for most foreigners is their first trip to the grocery store. Most people never know what they will truly miss until they find that they can’t find it in a Japanese supermarket. For example, peanut butter is a standard American food item. However, American peanut butter is not often sold in normal Japanese supermarkets and Japanese peanut butter (if available) tends to be much sweeter than American varieties. If a place does happen to carry American peanut butter it will likely be Skippy, very small by our standards, and cost about 398 yen. For the most part the fruit and meat sections will seem fairly standard, but the interior space where you would normally expect shelves to be stocked with cereal, soda, and various other foods will be filled by more varieties of miso, soy sauce, curry, and rice than you ever thought existed. Shopping at Japanese supermarkets can be daunting, and will most likely be one of the first places you truly begin to experience culture shock. Wheat bread, non-fat milk, and the varieties of cheese you’re used to at home are all incredibly difficult if not impossible to find. Learning to find acceptable substitutions will help you deal with the shock of not having all your favorite foods at arms reach.
Although foreign food is available more readily in the Osaka/Kyoto area, you will pay quite a bit more for it. For example, flour tortillas that you buy for about $1.50 in the US will sell for around 400 yen here. You can either pay (and travel) for the convenience, or you can learn how to make your favorite foods at home from scratch. I recommend the latter. First of all, learning to make things from scratch is fun and allows you to be creative, not to mention improves your own cooking skills. Making one of your favorite dishes from scratch will provide a feeling of accomplishment and success, something you will probably need while participating in an academically challenging program such as CET’s. You’ll be surprised at the foods you can make when you start thinking of what ingredients are available instead of what things aren’t available in the supermarkets. Going through the grocery store isles one at a time and taking inventory of available ingredients will only help you when looking for recipes. I suggest taking a careful look at what frozen foods, spices, and condiments are available. As far as spices are concerned you may find the foreign food stores offer a much wider variety (in larger sizes) for a better price than the local supermarket. Baking products, beans, canned tomatoes, and frozen fruit are also usually sold at import stores like Kaldi Coffee House for less than the traditional Japanese supermarket and also provides a fun and interesting shopping experience as you browse the store and take in all the foods from other parts of the world.
After you have a feeling of what’s available in your area, think of a food you could make with those ingredients and Google recipes for it. After finding a suitable recipe, you’ll also need to consider your equipment. For example, if you want to make chocolate chip cookies, do you have a toaster oven you can bake them in? (I recommend baking cookies at about 500-750 watts). If you want to make a cake or cornbread, do you have a rice cooker? Obviously being in Japan for a couple months makes it difficult to justify buying a lot of equipment just to make one dish, so deciding what recipe you can make depends on what ingredients are available and what equipment you have. You might be surprised at the options. Here’s a sampling of some of my favorite “American” foods I’ve made (from scratch) in Japan:
ñ Pasta bake with meatballs
ñ Mexican tacos, refried beans, rice, red sauce, and flour tortillas. (the only thing I purchased pre-made was salsa for the rice)
ñ Bean and cornbread casserole
ñ Chocolate chip cookies
ñ Oatmeal raisin cookies
ñ Yellow cake with chocolate frosting (or berry sauce)
ñ Apple cake (and various other fruit cakes)
ñ Applesauce
ñ Bread pudding
You may be asking why you would want to eat any American food while you’re in Japan since you’ll want to experience local Japanese food. I can’t say for certain, but I do think that most students who study abroad will find that the stress of classes, getting a poor grade, or just a gloomy day could stimulate a feeling of homesickness for a certain food. These are just a few suggestions on what to do if and when you get that craving. Personally I find cooking and baking to be an incredible stress reliever and a great way to share my culture with my roommate. I bake a new food every weekend, and my roommate and I have really bonded over my love to bake sweets. I think she enjoys experiencing new foods and talking about the differences between American and Japanese cultures. Keep in mind that studying abroad is a chance for you to grow and develop in many different ways, not just Japanese language.
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